Item 1. Business
Item 1. Business
Unifi, Inc., a New York corporation formed in 1969 (together with its subsidiaries, “UNIFI,” the “Company,” “we,” “us,” or “our”), is a multinational company that manufactures and sells innovative recycled and synthetic products, made from polyester and nylon, primarily to other yarn manufacturers and knitters and weavers (UNIFI’s “direct customers”) that produce yarn and/or fabric for the apparel, hosiery, home furnishings, automotive, industrial, medical, and other end-use markets (UNIFI’s “indirect customers”). We sometimes refer to these indirect customers as “brand partners.” Polyester products include partially oriented yarn (“POY”) and textured, solution and package dyed, twisted, beamed, and draw wound yarns, and each is available in virgin or recycled varieties. Recycled solutions, made from both pre-consumer and post-consumer waste, include plastic bottle flake (“Flake”), polyester polymer beads (“Chip”), and staple fiber. Nylon products include virgin or recycled textured, solution dyed, and spandex covered yarns.
UNIFI maintains one of the textile industry’s most comprehensive product offerings that includes a range of specialized, value-added and commodity solutions, with principal geographic markets in North America, Central America, South America, Asia, and Europe. UNIFI has direct manufacturing operations in four countries and participates in joint ventures with operations in Israel and the United States (the “U.S.”).
UNIFI has three reportable segments based on the primary geographies in which UNIFI distributes its products:
• The Americas Segment primarily sells recycled and synthetic products to yarn manufacturers, knitters and weavers that produce yarn and/or fabric for the apparel, hosiery, home furnishings, automotive, industrial, medical, and other end‑use markets principally in North and Central America. The Americas Segment consists of sales and manufacturing operations in the U.S., El Salvador, and Colombia.
• The Brazil Segment primarily sells recycled and synthetic products to knitters and weavers that produce fabric for the apparel, home furnishings, automotive, industrial, and other end-use markets principally in Brazil. The Brazil Segment includes a manufacturing location and sales offices in Brazil.
• The Asia Segment primarily sells recycled and synthetic products to yarn manufacturers, knitters and weavers that produce fabric for the apparel, home furnishings, automotive, industrial, and other end-use markets principally in Asia and Europe. The Asia Segment has no manufacturing assets and includes sales organizations in China, Turkey, and Hong Kong.
Other information for UNIFI’s reportable segments is provided in Note 24, “Business Segment Information,” to the accompanying consolidated financial statements.
Strategic Overview and Operating Results
We believe UNIFI’s underlying performance during recent fiscal years reflects the strength of our global initiative to deliver differentiated solutions to customers and brand partners throughout the world. Our supply chain has been developed and enhanced in multiple regions around the globe, allowing us to deliver a diverse range of fibers and polymers to key customers in the markets we serve, especially apparel. These textile products are supported by quality assurance, product development, product and fabric certifications, hangtags, and co-marketing along with technical and customer service teams across UNIFI’s operating subsidiaries. We have developed this successful operating platform by improving operational and business processes and deriving value from sustainability-based initiatives, including polyester and nylon recycling.
This platform has provided underlying growth in our core operations during recent fiscal years and has been augmented by significant capital investments that support the production and delivery of sustainable and innovative solutions. In order to achieve further growth, UNIFI is committed to investing strategically and synergistically in:
• accelerating innovation and high-quality manufacturing processes;
• expanding the REPREVE ® brand;
• growing market share in our major textile regions; and
• penetrating new markets and end-uses.
We believe that further commercial expansion will require a continued stream of new technology and innovation that generates products with meaningful consumer benefits. Along with our recycled platform, UNIFI has significant yarn technologies that provide optimal performance characteristics for today’s marketplace, including moisture management, temperature moderation, stretch, ultra-violet protection, and fire retardation, among others. To achieve further growth, UNIFI remains focused on innovation, bringing to market the next wave of fibers and polymers for tomorrow’s applications. As we invest and grow, sustainability remains at our core. We believe that increasing the awareness for recycled solutions in applications across fibers and polymers and furthering sustainability-based initiatives with like-minded brand partners will be key to our future success. We also believe that our manufacturing processes and our technical knowledge and capabilities will allow us to grow market share and develop new textile programs with new and existing customers. Ultimately, combining leading-edge innovation with our prominent, high-quality brand and agile regional business model will allow for underlying sales and profitability growth.
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Our recent efforts to alleviate competitive pressures from imported yarn into the U.S. are intended to complement our strategic initiatives and to stabilize the market share decline we have experienced in the U.S., while improving facility utilization and cost absorption. These efforts are further discussed below under the heading “Trade Regulation and Rules of Origin.” Execution on both our strategic and trade initiatives is expected to increase revenue and profitability.
Fiscal 2023 Financial Performance
The current economic environment and a significant decrease in textile product demand adversely impacted our consolidated sales and profitability in fiscal 2023. In addition to the current unfavorable economic environment and the inventory destocking measures taken by brands and retailers, the following pressures continued from fiscal 2022 into fiscal 2023: (i) the impact of inflation on consumer spending and our own manufacturing costs, (ii) rising interest rates, (iii) the Russia-Ukraine conflict, and (iv) supply chain volatility. As it pertains to the global business and the Americas Segment in particular, UNIFI will continue to monitor these and other aspects of the current economic environment and work closely with stakeholders to ensure business continuity and liquidity.
In fiscal 2023, the Brazil Segment's results decreased primarily due to the combination of high priced raw material inventory impacting gross margins in the first half of the fiscal year and decreasing market prices in Brazil due to low-cost import competition.
In fiscal 2023, the Asia Segment's results decreased primarily due to lower sales volumes in connection with weaker global demand. The Asia Segment is better able to withstand volatility in product demand due to its asset-light model and the lack of fixed cost absorption that can be unfavorable in times of weaker demand for asset intensive operations like our Americas and Brazil Segments.
The existing challenges and future uncertainty, particularly for global demand, labor productivity, and potential further inflation, could worsen and/or continue for prolonged periods, materially impacting our financial performance. The need for future selling price adjustments could impact our ability to retain current customer programs and compete successfully for new programs in certain regions.
Cash Deposits and Financial Institution Risk
During fiscal 2023, certain regional bank crises and failures generated additional uncertainty and volatility in the financial and credit markets. UNIFI currently holds the vast majority of its cash deposits with large foreign banks in our associated operating regions, and management believes that it has the ability to repatriate cash to the U.S. relatively quickly. Accordingly, UNIFI has not modified its mix of financial institutions holding cash deposits, but UNIFI will continue to monitor the environment and current events to ensure any increase in concentration or credit risk is appropriately and timely addressed. Likewise, if any of the financial institutions within our credit facility or construction financing arrangement (“lending counterparties”) are unable to perform on their commitments, our liquidity could be impacted. We actively monitor all lending counterparties, and none have indicated that they may be unable to perform on their commitments. In addition, we periodically review our lending counterparties, considering the stability of the institutions and other aspects of the relationships. Based on our monitoring activities, we currently believe our lending counterparties will be able to perform their commitments.
Russia-Ukraine Conflict
We recognize the disruption to global markets and supply chains caused by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. While volatility and uncertainty continue, we have no significant customers or supply chain partners in the conflicted region, and we have not been directly impacted by the conflict. Indirectly, we recognize that additional or prolonged impacts to the petroleum or other global markets could cause further inflationary pressures to our raw material costs or unforeseen adverse impacts.
COVID-19 Pandemic
Beginning in March 2020 with the World Health Organization’s declaration of the COVID-19 outbreak as a global pandemic, the global economy experienced the negative effects of local, state and federal containment efforts. These measures significantly reduced economic activity and demand for UNIFI’s products from March 2020 to December 2020.
In an effort to protect the health and safety of our employees, customers and communities, UNIFI took proactive, aggressive actions that included implementing safety measures and cost reductions in both manufacturing and selling, general, and administrative (“SG&A”) expenses without impacting our ability to service customers. Containment measures were relaxed in the U.S. in fiscal 2022 and are evaluated regularly against local, state, and federal recommendations.
Throughout calendar 2020, the Asia Segment’s overall performance and profitability was moderately impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, while our Americas and Brazil Segments’ operations were more adversely impacted, most notably in the June 2020 and September 2020 quarters during the most intense declines in global demand.
During fiscal 2021, the local government in Sao Paolo, Brazil issued lockdown orders during late March 2021 that continued into April 2021 in an effort to slow the spread of COVID-19 resulting in store closings and manufacturing shutdowns. The restrictions caused an immediate disruption of our Brazil Segment’s revenue during the quarantine period, although demand levels recovered at the end of fiscal 2021.
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Beginning in March 2022, China implemented a strict COVID-19 zero-tolerance policy that included geographic markets near Suzhou, China, where our sales and administrative office is located. Due to these severe lockdowns in China, the Asia Segment’s results were adversely impacted, primarily during the fourth quarter of fiscal 2022 and the first half of fiscal 2023.
While pandemic restrictions eased during fiscal 2023, reversion could adversely impact our operating results.
UNIFI has been able to navigate the negative effects of the COVID-19 pandemic to minimize the overall impact to UNIFI for fiscal 2021, 2022, and 2023 as global demand and consumer spending levels were predominantly restored over fiscal 2021 and such economic levels did not decline within fiscal 2022.
REPREVE ®
In the early 2000s, by recycling our own production waste into useful polyester fibers, we took the first steps toward building an important supply chain with a focus on sustainability and environmental responsibility. After nearly two decades, our REPREVE brand has become the quintessential recycled fiber of choice for brand, retail, and textile partners around the globe. REPREVE is most commonly offered in the following fiber forms: polyester staple fiber, polyester filament, nylon staple fiber, and nylon filament, comprising our REPREVE Fiber platform. We also sell REPREVE Chip, which is a polyester resin product. Beyond the high quality, versatility, and breadth of application that REPREVE offers, UNIFI combines transparency, traceability, and certification for REPREVE products to support our customers’ own sustainability narratives.
REPREVE is our flagship and fastest growing brand. As part of our efforts to expand consumer brand recognition of REPREVE, UNIFI has developed recycling-focused sponsorships with various brand partners and other entities that span across sporting, music, and outdoor events. The increasing success and awareness of the REPREVE brand continues to provide new opportunities for growth, allowing for expansion into new end uses and markets for REPREVE, as well as continued growth of the brand with current customers. This has driven traction with global brands and retailers who obtain value and lasting consumer interest from the innovation and sustainability aspects that REPREVE provides. Expanding sales of REPREVE is an important component of our business strategy, and we expect to achieve improved margins and deeper relationships with customers accordingly.
We remain committed to sustainability. During fiscal 2023, we achieved a significant milestone by surpassing more than 35 billion recycled plastic bottles transformed since the inception of REPREVE. In addition, in fiscal 2021 and 2023, we received comparably favorable Higg Materials Sustainability Index scores for REPREVE produced in the U.S., demonstrating that the brand’s global warming potential is meaningfully better than conventional alternatives. Our dedication continues as we pursue our next goal of reaching the 50 billion recycled plastic bottles mark by December 2025. We will continue growing the business for our REPREVE products and believe our engagement and research and development work with brands and retailers continues to create new, worldwide sales opportunities.
The primary metric for tracking growth of the REPREVE brand is REPREVE Fiber sales. REPREVE Fiber represents UNIFI's collection of fiber products on its recycled platform, with or without added technologies. Of our consolidated net sales in fiscal 2021, 2022, and 2023, REPREVE Fiber sales comprised 37%, 36% and 30%, or $245,832, $293,080, and $186,161, respectively. The decline in such REPREVE Fiber sales for fiscal 2023 was driven primarily by weak global demand and lower sales volume for our Asia Segment.
Capital Investments
In fiscal 2018, we completed a significant, three-year capital investment plan to increase our manufacturing capabilities and capacity, expand our technological foundation, and customize our asset base to improve our ability to deliver small-lot and high-value solutions. These investments were made primarily for the Americas Segment.
Most notably, we made significant investments in the production and supply chain for REPREVE, including backward integration by building a bottle processing facility and additional production lines in the REPREVE Recycling Center.
Subsequent to the multi-year capital investment plan, our capital investments ranged from approximately $15,000 to $25,000 each fiscal year, and most recently included making (i) further improvements in production capabilities and technological enhancements in the Americas and (ii) annual maintenance capital expenditures.
Fiscal 2021 through 2023 capital investments increased in connection with our planned investment of approximately $100,000 into the Americas and Brazil Segments for new eAFK Evo texturing machinery that has significant efficiency, productivity, and flexibility benefits over our legacy equipment. We are encouraged by the performance metrics surrounding the eAFK Evo texturing machines currently operating in our facilities, and we expect these upgrades to generate meaningful investment returns in the future when product demand recovers. When approximately 75% of the $100,000 project was completed in March 2023 and all related investments for the Brazil Segment had been completed, UNIFI negotiated a contract modification with the equipment vendor because of the weaker demand environment in fiscal 2023. The contract modification was executed at a cost to UNIFI of $623 and allows UNIFI to delay the remaining equipment purchases and installation activities for 18 months, such that approximately $25,000 of capital expenditures originally expected over the March 2023 to September 2024 period are now expected to occur over the September 2024 to March 2026 period. This action allows for improved short- and mid-term liquidity in light of the current subdued levels of sales and facility utilization and allows for a better matching of future capital expenditures with expected higher levels of future business activity.
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In fiscal 2024, we expect to invest between $14,000 and $16,000 in capital projects, including making further improvements in production capabilities and technological enhancements in the Americas and annual maintenance capital expenditures.
Nonetheless, as demonstrated in fiscal 2023, economic disruptions and other factors could adversely impact the speed at which we invest in capital projects, as we continue to prioritize liquidity, safety, and maintenance.
Share Repurchases
In addition to capital investments and debt retirement, UNIFI may utilize excess cash for strategic share repurchases. On October 31, 2018, UNIFI announced that the Company's Board of Directors (the “Board”) approved a share repurchase program (the “2018 SRP”) under which UNIFI is authorized to acquire up to $50,000 of its common stock. Under the 2018 SRP, purchases may be made from time to time in the open market at prevailing market prices or through private transactions or block trades. The timing and amount of repurchases will depend on market conditions, share price, applicable legal requirements, and other factors. The share repurchase authorization is discretionary and has no expiration date.
As of July 2, 2023, UNIFI had repurchased 701 shares at an average price of $15.90 per share, none of which occurred in fiscal 2023, leaving $38,859 available for repurchase under the 2018 SRP. UNIFI will continue to evaluate opportunities to use excess cash flows from operations or existing borrowings to repurchase additional stock, while maintaining sufficient liquidity to support its operational needs and to fund future strategic growth opportunities.
Developments in Principal Markets
Americas
Our operations in the U.S., El Salvador and Colombia utilize the Dominican Republic—Central America Free Trade Agreement (“CAFTA-DR”) and the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (“USMCA”). Prior to the establishment of the USMCA, we benefited from a similar, historical agreement known as the North American Free Trade Agreement (“NAFTA”).
Over the last several years, apparel production experienced growth in the North and Central America regions, which comprise the principal markets for UNIFI’s Americas Segment. The share of synthetic apparel production for these regions as a percentage of U.S. retail stabilized at approximately 18%. The CAFTA-DR region, which continues to be a competitive alternative to Asian supply chains for textile products, maintained its share of synthetic apparel supply to U.S. retailers. The relative share of synthetic apparel versus cotton apparel as a proportion of the overall apparel market increased and provided growth for the consumption of synthetic yarns within the CAFTA-DR region.
During the last six fiscal years, several key drivers affected our financial results in the Americas. During fiscal 2018 and 2019, our operations in the U.S. were unfavorably impacted by (i) rising raw material costs and (ii) a surge of imported polyester textured yarn that depressed our pricing, market share, and fixed cost absorption. During fiscal 2020, our financial results began to improve following more stable import and raw material cost environments. However, the COVID-19 pandemic had a significant unfavorable impact to product demand and our annual profitability suffered accordingly. Near the end of fiscal 2020, we divested a minority interest investment and significantly improved our liquidity position, supporting business preservation and the ability to capture long-term growth opportunities. Throughout fiscal 2021, our businesses experienced sequential improvement alongside global demand and economic recovery, and we capitalized on profitable opportunities that fueled strong consolidated results. Throughout fiscal 2022 and 2023, we experienced adverse pressure from rising input costs and weakening manufacturing productivity. In addition, in fiscal 2023, the Americas Segment experienced lower volumes as a result of lower global demand in connection with the inventory destocking efforts of major brands and retailers. Looking ahead, we believe our operations remain well-positioned to capture long-term growth opportunities, and we are working to mitigate any potential recessionary impacts.
Brazil
UNIFI’s Brazilian operations play a key role in our strategy. This segment is primarily impacted by (i) price pressures from imported fiber, fabric, and finished goods (similar to our U.S. operations), (ii) the inflation rate in Brazil, and (iii) changes in the value of the Brazilian Real (“BRL”). Competition and economic and political volatility remain challenging conditions in South America, despite our strong performance in fiscal 2021 and 2022, thus UNIFI continues to (i) aggressively pursue mix enrichment and market share by working with customers to develop programs using our differentiated products, including REPREVE, and (ii) implement process improvements and manufacturing efficiency plans to help lower per-unit costs. In addition, our installation of eAFK Evo machinery in Brazil has been highly successful in generating manufacturing efficiencies and the associated finished goods have been highly regarded by customers.
Asia
UNIFI’s Asia operations remain an important part of our strategy due to the significant capacity and production that exists in Asia, which enhances our ability to service customers with global supply chains. Competition in the Asia region remains high; however, interest and demand for UNIFI’s products in Asia have helped support strong underlying sales volumes in recent years. We are encouraged by programs undertaken with key brands and retailers that benefit from the diversification and innovation of our global portfolio and expect a rebound in the Asian market in the second half of fiscal 2024.
Looking ahead, we expect to expand into additional markets in India, Europe, Africa, and the Middle East utilizing the asset-light supply chain and service model that has been successful for us in Asia.
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As we expand our operations outside of the Americas, we will continue to evaluate the level of capital investment required to support the needs of our customers and we intend to allocate our resources accordingly.
Industry Overview
UNIFI operates in the textile industry and, within that broad category, the respective markets for yarns, fabrics, fibers, and end-use products, such as apparel and hosiery, automotive, industrial, medical, and home furnishings, among others. Even though the textile industry is global, there are several distinctive regional or other geographic markets that often shape the business strategies and operations of participants in the industry. Because of free trade agreements and other trade regulations entered into by the U.S. government, the U.S. textile industry, which is otherwise a distinctive geographic market on its own, is often considered in conjunction with other geographic markets or regions in North, South, and Central America.
According to data compiled by PCI WoodMackenzie, a global leader in research and analysis for the polyester and raw material markets, global demand for polyester yarns has grown steadily since 1980. In calendar 2003, polyester replaced cotton as the fiber with the largest percentage of worldwide fiber sales. Global polyester consumption has accounted for an estimated 56% of global fiber consumption, and global demand was projected to increase by approximately 3.0% to 3.5% annually through calendar 2025. Global nylon consumption accounts for an estimated 5% of global fiber consumption. Additionally, due to the higher cost of nylon, the industry may transition certain products from nylon to polyester. The polyester and nylon fiber sectors together account for approximately 62% of North American textile consumption.
According to the National Council of Textile Organizations, the U.S. textile and apparel industry’s total shipments were approximately $65.8 billion for calendar 2022 as the U.S. textile and apparel industry exported nearly $34.0 billion of textile and apparel products. The U.S. textile industry remains a large manufacturing employer.
Trade Regulation and Rules of Origin
The duty rate on imports into the U.S. of finished apparel categories that utilize polyester and nylon yarns generally range from 16% to 32%. For many years, imports of fabric and finished goods into the U.S. have increased significantly from countries that do not participate in free trade agreements or trade preference programs, despite duties charged on those imports. The primary drivers for that growth were lower overseas operating costs, foreign government subsidization of textile industries, increased overseas sourcing by U.S. retailers, the entry of China into the World Trade Organization, and the staged elimination of all textile and apparel quotas. Although global apparel imports represent a significant percentage of the U.S. market, Regional FTAs (as defined below), which follow general “yarn forward” rules of origin, provide duty free advantages for apparel made from regional fibers, yarns and fabrics, allowing UNIFI opportunities to participate in this growing market.
A significant number of UNIFI’s customers in the apparel market produce finished goods that meet the eligibility requirements for duty-free treatment in the regions covered by the Americas Segment and the Colombia and Peru free trade agreements (collectively, the “Regional FTAs”). The Regional FTAs contain rules of origin requirements in order for covered products to be eligible for duty-free treatment. In the case of textiles such as fabric, yarn (such as POY), fibers (filament and staple), and certain garments made from them, the products are generally required to be fully formed within the respective regions. UNIFI is the largest filament yarn manufacturer, and one of the few producers of qualifying synthetic yarns, in the regions covered by the Regional FTAs.
The U.S.'s adoption of the USMCA in calendar 2020 did not significantly impact textile and apparel trade in the region. The USMCA includes strong rules of origin and closed several loopholes in the NAFTA that allowed non-originating inputs, such as sewing thread, pocketing, and narrow elastic fabrics.
U.S. legislation commonly referred to as the “Berry Amendment” stipulates that certain textile and apparel articles purchased by the U.S. Department of Defense must be manufactured in the U.S. and must consist of yarns and fibers produced in the U.S. UNIFI believes it is the largest producer of polyester and nylon filament yarns for Berry Amendment compliant purchasing programs.
UNIFI refers to fibers sold with specific rules of origin requirements under the Regional FTAs and the Berry Amendment, as “Compliant Yarns.” Approximately half of UNIFI’s sales within the Americas Segment are sold as Compliant Yarns under the terms of the Regional FTAs or the Berry Amendment.
UNIFI believes the requirements of the rules of origin and the associated duty-free cost advantages in the Regional FTAs, together with the Berry Amendment and the growing demand for supplier responsiveness and improved inventory turns, will ensure that a portion of the existing textile industry will remain based in the Americas. UNIFI expects that the region covered by the Americas Segment will continue to maintain its share of apparel production as a percentage of U.S. retail. UNIFI believes the remaining synthetic apparel production within these markets is more specialized and defensible, and, in some cases, apparel producers are bringing programs back to this region as part of a balanced sourcing strategy for certain brands and retailers. Because UNIFI is the largest of only a few significant producers of Compliant Yarns under the Regional FTAs, UNIFI continues to leverage its eligibility status for duty-free processing to increase its share of business with regional and domestic fabric producers who ship their products into this region.
Over the longer term, the textile industry in this region is expected to continue to be impacted by Asian supply chains where costs are much lower and regulation is limited.
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Imports of polyester textured yarn from China and India, which increased approximately 79% from calendar 2013 to 2017 and which continued to grow during calendar 2018, remained elevated during fiscal 2019 and created considerable pressure on our margins and competitiveness in the U.S. Accordingly, in October 2018, UNIFI filed antidumping and countervailing duty cases with the U.S. Department of Commerce (the “Commerce Department”) and the U.S. International Trade Commission (the “ITC”) alleging that dumped and subsidized imports of polyester textured yarn from China and India were causing material injury to the domestic polyester textured yarn industry.
In response to antidumping and countervailing duty cases filed with the Commerce Department and the ITC in October 2018, the Commerce Department announced on April 29, 2019 affirmative preliminary countervailing duty determinations on unfairly subsidized imports of polyester textured yarn from (i) China at rates of 32% or more and (ii) India at rates of 7% or more. Subsequently, the Commerce Department and the ITC completed their investigations and began imposing associated final duties on imports. Pursuant to the conclusion of these investigations, subject imports from China and India are assessed combined antidumping and countervailing duty rates of 97% and higher and 18% and higher, respectively, in addition to normal course duties in effect. The positive developments in our pursuit of relief from low-cost and subsidized imports are critical steps in our efforts to compete against imported yarns that have flooded the U.S. market in recent years.
Subsequent to the completion of the trade initiatives against China and India, imports from Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam (the “Subject Countries”) seemingly replaced the imports from China and India and surged into the U.S. market. Subject import volume from the Subject Countries increased from calendar 2017 to calendar 2019 by over 80%. Similar to the adverse impacts of imports from China and India in previous years, the subject imports from the Subject Countries undersold the domestic industry, taking sales from, and exerting considerable downward pricing pressure on, yarns produced by UNIFI. Accordingly, UNIFI was again a petitioner to the Commerce Department and the ITC alleging dumping of polyester textured yarn in the U.S. market from the Subject Countries.
In December 2020, the ITC made affirmative determinations in its preliminary phase of antidumping duty investigations concerning polyester textured yarn from the Subject Countries. In May 2021, the Commerce Department announced preliminary antidumping duty rates on imports from the Subject Countries. In November 2021, the ITC determined that the U.S. textile industry was materially injured by reason of imports of polyester textured yarn from the Subject Countries, and in December 2021, the Commerce Department issued unanimous final antidumping duty orders on such imports. The applicable rates for the applicable countries range as follows: Indonesia, 7% to 26%; Malaysia, 8%; Thailand, 14% to 56%; and Vietnam, 2% to 22%.
While the ultimate short-term and long-term impacts of these duties are not yet known, UNIFI expects these countervailing and antidumping duty rates to play a significant role in helping to normalize the competitive position of UNIFI’s yarns in the U.S. market against the respective imported yarns.
Competition
The industry in which UNIFI operates is global and highly competitive. UNIFI competes not only as a global yarn producer, but also as part of a regional supply chain for certain textile products. For sales of Compliant Yarns, UNIFI competes with a limited number of foreign and domestic producers of polyester and nylon yarns. For sales of non-Compliant Yarns, UNIFI competes with a larger number of foreign and domestic producers of polyester and nylon yarns that can meet the required customer specifications of quality, reliability, and timeliness. UNIFI is affected by imported textile, apparel, and hosiery products, which adversely impact demand for UNIFI’s polyester and nylon products in certain of its markets. Several foreign competitors have significant advantages, including lower wages, raw material costs, and capital costs and favorable foreign currency exchange rates against the U.S. Dollar (“USD”), any of which could make UNIFI’s products, or the related supply chains, less competitive. While competitors have traditionally focused on high-volume commodity products, they are now increasingly focused on specialty products that UNIFI historically has been able to leverage to generate higher margins.
UNIFI’s major competitors in the Americas region for polyester yarns are Aquafil O'Mara; United Textiles of America S.de R.L. de C.V.; NanYa Plastics Corp. of America (“NanYa”); AKRA, S.A. de C.V.; and C S Central America S.A. de C.V.
UNIFI’s major competitors in Brazil are traders of imported yarns and fibers.
UNIFI’s operations in Asia face competition from multiple yarn manufacturers in that region and identification of them is not feasible. However, much of our portfolio in the Asia region is advantaged by specialty and recycled products and a global sourcing and support model that assists in differentiation.
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UNIFI’s major competitors for nylon yarn sales in the U.S. are Sapona Manufacturing Company, Inc. and McMichael Mills, Inc.
Globally, competitors for our REPREVE products include recycled brands from Far Eastern New Century, Tiejin, Radici, and Polygenta.
Raw Materials, Suppliers and Sourcing
The primary raw material supplier for the Americas Segment of virgin Chip and POY is NanYa. For the Brazil Segment, Reliance Industries, Ltd. is the primary supplier of POY. The primary suppliers of nylon raw materials for the Americas Segment are U.N.F. Industries Ltd. (“UNF”); UNF America, LLC (“UNFA”); The LYCRA Company; and Nilit Ltd. Each of UNF and UNFA is a joint venture owned 50% by UNIFI. Currently, there are multiple domestic and foreign suppliers available to fulfill UNIFI’s sourcing requirements for its recycled products. The majority of plastic bottles we utilize in the U.S. are obtained in open-market transactions from various entities throughout the U.S., while our Asian subsidiaries source recycled materials from various countries and entities throughout Asia.
For its operations in the U.S., UNIFI produces and buys certain of its raw material fibers for Compliant Yarns from a variety of sources in both the U.S. and Israel, and UNIFI produces a portion of its Chip requirements in its REPREVE Recycling Center and purchases the remainder of such requirements from external suppliers for use in its domestic spinning facility to produce POY. In addition, UNIFI purchases nylon and polyester products for resale from various suppliers. Although UNIFI does not generally have difficulty obtaining its raw material requirements, UNIFI has, in the past, experienced interruptions or limitations in the supply of certain raw materials.
UNIFI’s bottle processing facility in Reidsville, North Carolina provides a high-quality source of Flake for the REPREVE Recycling Center as well as for sale to external parties. Combined with recent technological advancements in recycling, we believe the Flake produced at the bottle processing facility enhances our ability to grow REPREVE into other markets, such as nonwovens, carpet fiber, and packaging.
The prices of the principal raw materials used by UNIFI continuously fluctuate, and it is difficult or impossible to predict trends or upcoming developments. During fiscal 2020 and 2021, UNIFI operated in a predominantly decreasing polyester raw material cost environment. During fiscal 2022, UNIFI operated in a predominantly increasing polyester raw material cost environment. During fiscal 2023, the prices of polyester raw materials used by UNIFI began to decrease from their peak during the summer of calendar 2022.
We consider the raw material price decreases during most of fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2021 to be the result of a decline in COVID-related global demand, while increasing raw material prices during the second half of fiscal 2021 and most of fiscal 2022 appeared to reflect global demand rebounds and inflationary pressures. We consider the raw material price decreases during most of fiscal 2023 to be the result of a decline in global demand. The continuing volatility in global crude oil prices is likely to impact UNIFI’s polyester and nylon raw material costs, but it is not possible to predict the timing or amount of the impact or whether the movement in crude oil prices will stabilize, increase, or decrease. In any event, UNIFI monitors these dynamic factors closely and does not currently engage in hedges of polyester or nylon raw materials.
Products, Technologies and Related Markets
Our virgin and recycled products sold across all geographies range from specialty, value-added to commodity. We provide products to a variety of end-use markets, principally apparel, industrial, furnishings, and automotive.
We estimate consolidated net sales for fiscal 2023 were distributed across our primary end markets as listed below.
• Apparel (including hosiery and footwear) represented approximately 65% of our consolidated net sales.
• Industrial represented approximately 11% of our consolidated net sales, and includes medical, belting, tapes, filtration, ropes, protective fabrics, and awnings.
• Furnishings (including both contract and home furnishings) represented approximately 9% of our consolidated net sales, and are largely dependent upon the housing market, which, in turn, is influenced by consumer confidence and credit availability.
• Automotive represented approximately 4% of our consolidated net sales.
• All other markets represented approximately 11% of our consolidated net sales.
UNIFI also adds value to the overall supply chain for textile products and increases consumer demand for UNIFI’s own products through the development and introduction of branded yarns and technologies that provide unique sustainability, performance, comfort, and aesthetic advantages. UNIFI’s branded portion of its yarn portfolio continues to provide product differentiation to brand partners, mills, and consumers. UNIFI’s branded yarns can be found in a variety of products of well-known international brands, retailers, and department stores.
In addition to the above brands and products, UNIFI combines its research and development efforts with the demands of customers and markets to develop innovative technologies that enhance yarn characteristics. Application of these technologies allows for various, separate benefits, including: water repellency, flame retardation, soil release, enhanced color-fastness achieved with less water use, and protection from ultra-violet rays, among other attributes.
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As we continue to diversify our portfolio beyond apparel and pursue new end markets, we expect to gain margin accretive sales and improve facility utilization.
Customers
UNIFI’s Americas Segment, Brazil Segment, and Asia Segment serve approximately 500, 400, and 600 customers, respectively, all in a variety of geographic markets. UNIFI’s products are manufactured according to customer specifications and are shipped based upon customer order requirements. Customer payment terms are generally consistent with prevailing industry practices for the geographies in which we participate.
UNIFI’s consolidated net sales are not materially dependent on a single direct customer and no single direct customer accounts for 10% or more of UNIFI’s consolidated net sales. One direct customer, OIA Global, comprised 15% of the Asia Segment's sales in fiscal 2023. UNIFI’s top 10 direct customers accounted for approximately 26% of consolidated net sales for fiscal 2023 and approximately 28% of receivables as of July 2, 2023. However, UNIFI’s consolidated net sales are dependent on demand from a relatively small number of brand partners.
Sales and Marketing
UNIFI employs an internal sales force of approximately 60 persons operating out of sales offices primarily in the U.S., Brazil, China, El Salvador, Colombia, Turkey, and Europe. UNIFI also relies on independent sales agents for sales in several other countries. UNIFI seeks to create strong customer relationships and to build and strengthen those relationships throughout the supply chain. Through frequent communications with customers, partnering in product development, and engaging key downstream brands and retailers, UNIFI has created significant pull-through sales and brand recognition for its products. For example, UNIFI works with brands and retailers to educate and create demand for its products, including recent engagements involving REPREVE at multiple events and venues in the U.S. UNIFI then works with key fabric mill partners to develop specific fabrics for those brands and retailers utilizing UNIFI products. In many of these regards, UNIFI draws upon and integrates the resources of its research and development personnel. In addition, UNIFI is enhancing co-branding activations with integrated point-of-sale and online marketing with popular brands and retailers to enable consumers to find REPREVE and other performance technology products in multiple retail channels. Based on the establishment of many commercial and branded programs, this strategy has been successful for UNIFI.
Product Customization and Manufacturing Processes
UNIFI uses advanced production processes to manufacture its high-quality products cost-effectively in North America, Central America, and Brazil and transfers relevant technical knowledge to its asset light operations in Asia for manufacture with trusted supply chain partners. UNIFI believes that its flexibility and expertise in producing specialty recycled and synthetic products provide important development and commercialization advantages, in addition to the recent ability to integrate vertically with post-industrial and post-consumer materials.
UNIFI produces Flake, Chip, and POY using recycled materials. In addition to its yarns manufactured from virgin polyester and nylon, UNIFI sells its recycled products externally or further processes them internally to add value for customers seeking recycled components. The REPREVE Bottle Processing Center in Reidsville, North Carolina produces Flake that can be sold externally or further processed internally at our REPREVE Recycling Center in Yadkinville, North Carolina. Recycled polyester Chip output from the REPREVE Recycling Center can be sold externally or further processed internally into polyester POY.
Additional processing of UNIFI’s polyester POY includes texturing, dyeing, twisting, beaming, draw winding, and covering. The texturing process involves the use of high-speed machines to draw, heat, and false-twist POY to produce yarn with different physical characteristics, depending on its ultimate end-use. Texturing gives the yarn greater bulk, strength, stretch, consistent dye-ability, and a softer feel, thereby making it suitable for use in the knitting and weaving of fabric. Solution dyeing and package dyeing allow for matching of customer-specific color requirements for yarns sold into various markets. Twisting incorporates real twist into filament yarns, which can be sold for a variety of uses, such as sewing thread, home furnishings, and apparel. Beaming places both textured and covered yarns onto beams to be used by customers in warp knitting and weaving applications. The draw winding process utilizes heat and draws POY to produce mid-tenacity, flat yarns. Lastly, covering operations utilize a spandex core to produce yarns with more stretch, compression, or comfort.
UNIFI’s subsidiaries in Asia offer the same high-quality and innovative products and technologies through contract manufacturing arrangements with local manufacturers. This asset-light model allows for seamless integration of our products into the global supply chain of our customers. As we expand our Asian operations to meet the needs of our global customers, we will continue to leverage the asset-light model where the existing infrastructure can accommodate our highly technical processes, while continually evaluating the need for additional UNIFI assets in response to ever-changing market dynamics.
Research and Development
UNIFI employs approximately 130 persons, primarily in the U.S., who work closely with UNIFI’s customers, brand partners, and others to develop a variety of new yarns as well as improvements to the performance properties of existing yarns and fabrics. Among other things, UNIFI evaluates trends and uses the latest technology to create innovative yarns that meet the needs of evolving consumer preferences. Most of UNIFI’s branded yarns, including its flagship REPREVE brand, were derived from its research and development initiatives.
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UNIFI also includes, as part of its research and development initiatives, the use of continuous improvement methodologies to increase its manufacturing and other operational efficiencies, both to enhance product quality and to derive cost savings.
For fiscal 2023, 2022, and 2021, UNIFI incurred $10,871, $12,103, and $11,483, respectively, in costs for research and development (including salaries and benefits of the personnel involved in those efforts).
Intellectual Property
UNIFI has numerous trademarks registered in the U.S. and in other countries and jurisdictions around the world. Due to its current brand recognition and potential growth opportunities, UNIFI believes that its portfolio of registered REPREVE trademarks is its most significant trademark asset. Ownership rights in registered trademarks typically do not expire if the trademarks are continued in use and properly protected under applicable law.
UNIFI licenses certain trademarks, including Dacron ® and Softec, from Invista S.a.r.l. (“INVISTA”).
UNIFI also employs its innovative manufacturing know-how, methods, and processes to produce and deliver proprietary solutions to customers and brand partners. UNIFI relies on the copyright and trade secret laws of the U.S. and other countries, as well as nondisclosure and confidentiality agreements, to protect these rights.
Human Capital
As of July 2, 2023, UNIFI had approximately 2,800 employees, which includes approximately 200 individuals working under temporary labor contracts. The number of employees in each of the Americas, Brazil, and Asia Segments and the corporate office were approximately 2,000, 610, 90, and 100, respectively, at July 2, 2023. While employees of our Brazil Segment are unionized, none of the labor forces employed by UNIFI’s domestic or other foreign subsidiaries are currently covered by a collective bargaining agreement. UNIFI believes the Company has a good relationship with its employees.
We believe in the importance of the retention, growth, and development of our employees. UNIFI endeavors to offer competitive compensation and benefits packages to our employees, as well as professional development opportunities to cultivate talent throughout the organization. We focus on employee health and safety initiatives, with thorough training and monitoring practices to enhance workplace safety. We also value people and ideas from varying backgrounds and are constantly striving to create a more diverse workforce and inclusive organization.
Geographic Data
Geographic information reported in conformance with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“GAAP”) is included in Note 24, “Business Segment Information,” to the accompanying consolidated financial statements. Information regarding risks attendant to UNIFI’s foreign operations is included in “Item 1A. Risk Factors” in this report.
Seasonality
UNIFI is not significantly impacted by seasonality; however, UNIFI typically experiences its highest sales volumes in the fourth quarter of its fiscal years. Excluding the effects of fiscal years with 53 weeks rather than 52 weeks, the most significant effects on UNIFI’s results of operations for particular periods during a year are due to planned manufacturing shutdowns by either UNIFI or its customers for certain holiday or traditional shutdown periods.
Backlog
UNIFI’s level of unfilled orders is affected by many factors, including the timing of specific orders and the delivery time for specific products, as well as a customer’s ability or inability to cancel the related order. As such, UNIFI does not consider the amount of unfilled orders, or backlog, to be a meaningful indicator of expected levels of future sales or to be material to an understanding of UNIFI’s business as a whole.
Working Capital
UNIFI funds its working capital requirements through cash flows generated from operations, along with short-term borrowings, as needed. For more detailed information, see “Liquidity and Capital Resources” in “Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” in this report.
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Inflation
Prior to fiscal 2021, UNIFI’s input costs had experienced steady and predictable increases. However, in calendar 2021 and 2022, UNIFI, along with many other textile manufacturers and a range of other industries, began to experience above-average inflationary pressures on a range of input costs, including, but not limited to, labor, freight, energy, and raw materials. Accordingly, we began implementing responsive selling price adjustments during both fiscal 2021 and 2022 to protect gross margins. In calendar 2023, UNIFI experienced a slight decline in these inflationary pressures, but some of these input costs were still above historical levels. While our selling price adjustments have thus far been successful at mitigating much of the inflationary pressure that has occurred, further significant fluctuations in input costs may not be immediately recoverable via selling price adjustments and our gross margins could suffer. However, we monitor our input costs closely, and we expect to maintain our ability to respond quickly to cost fluctuations to minimize any potential adverse impacts to earnings.
Beyond the current inflationary environment experienced in fiscal 2022 and 2023, UNIFI expects that costs could continue to rise long term for certain consumables used to produce and ship its products, as well as for its utilities and labor. UNIFI expects to mitigate the impacts of such rising costs through increased operational efficiencies and increased selling prices, but rising inflation could be a factor that negatively impacts UNIFI’s profitability.
In the past, selling price adjustments were primarily associated with changes in the price of polyester and nylon raw materials, but the current environment requires that selling price adjustments accommodate significant increases in all categories of input costs, including packaging, supplies, additives, and labor. For the majority of our portfolio, we were able to implement selling price adjustments to protect gross margins in fiscal 2022. However, some selling price adjustments in the U.S. and Central America were not realized rapidly enough in fiscal 2022 to avoid temporary gross margin declines in certain portions of our portfolio. While we navigated the dynamic cost environment during fiscal 2021 through 2023 better than in earlier prior years, fixed cost absorption and manufacturing productivity have adversely impacted our gross margin and remain current headwinds to UNIFI’s profitability, most notably in the Americas Segment.
Environmental Matters
UNIFI is subject to various federal, state, and local environmental laws and regulations limiting the use, storage, handling, release, discharge, and disposal of a variety of hazardous substances and wastes used in or resulting from its operations (and to potential remediation obligations thereunder). These laws include the Federal Water Pollution Control Act, the Clean Air Act, the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act (including provisions relating to underground storage tanks), the Comprehensive Environmental Response, Compensation, and Liability Act, commonly referred to as “Superfund” or “CERCLA,” and various state counterparts to such laws. UNIFI’s operations are also governed by laws and regulations relating to workplace safety and worker health, principally the Occupational Safety and Health Act and regulations issued thereunder, which, among other things, establish exposure standards regarding hazardous materials and noise standards and regulate the use of hazardous chemicals in the workplace.
UNIFI believes that it has obtained, and is in compliance in all material respects with, all significant permits required to be issued by federal, state, or local law in connection with the operation of its business. UNIFI also believes that the operation of its production facilities and its disposal of waste materials are substantially in compliance with applicable federal, state, and local laws and regulations, and that there are no material ongoing or anticipated capital expenditures associated with environmental control facilities necessary to remain in compliance with such provisions. UNIFI incurs normal operating costs associated with the discharge of materials into the environment but does not believe that these costs are material or inconsistent with those of its domestic competitors.
On September 30, 2004, Unifi Kinston, LLC (“UK”), a subsidiary of Unifi, Inc., completed its acquisition of polyester filament manufacturing assets located in Kinston, North Carolina (“Kinston”) from INVISTA. The land for the Kinston site was leased pursuant to a 99-year ground lease (the “Ground Lease”) with E.I. DuPont de Nemours (“DuPont”). Since 1993, DuPont has been investigating and cleaning up the Kinston site under the supervision of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the North Carolina Department of Environmental Quality (the “DEQ”) pursuant to the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act Corrective Action program. The program requires DuPont to identify all potential areas of environmental concern (“AOCs”), assess the extent of containment at the identified AOCs and remediate the AOCs to comply with applicable regulatory standards. Effective March 20, 2008, UK entered into a lease termination agreement associated with conveyance of certain assets at the Kinston site to DuPont. This agreement terminated the Ground Lease and relieved UK of any future responsibility for environmental remediation, other than participation with DuPont, if so called upon, with regard to UK’s period of operation of the Kinston site, which was from 2004 to 2008. At this time, UNIFI has no basis to determine if or when it will have any responsibility or obligation with respect to the AOCs or the extent of any potential liability for the same. UK continues to own property (the “Kentec site”) acquired in the 2004 transaction with INVISTA that has contamination from DuPont’s prior operations and is monitored by DEQ. The Kentec site has been remediated by DuPont, and DuPont has received authority from DEQ to discontinue further remediation, other than natural attenuation. Prior to transfer of responsibility to UK, DuPont and UK had a duty to monitor and report the environmental status of the Kentec site to DEQ. Effective April 10, 2019, UK assumed sole remediator responsibility of the Kentec site pursuant to its contractual obligations with INVISTA and received $180 of net monitoring and reporting costs due from DuPont. In connection with monitoring, UK expects to sample and report to DEQ annually. At this time, UNIFI does not expect any active site remediation will be required but expects that any costs associated with active site remediation, if ever required, would likely be immaterial.
Joint Ventures and Unconsolidated Affiliates
UNIFI participates in two joint ventures that supply raw materials to the Americas Segment, one located in the U.S. and one in Israel. As of July 2, 2023, UNIFI had $2,997 recorded for these investments in unconsolidated affiliates. Other information regarding UNIFI’s unconsolidated affiliates is provided in “Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” and under the subheading “ Investments in Unconsolidated Affiliates ” in Note 10, "Other Non-Current Assets," to the accompanying consolidated financial statements.
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Available Information
UNIFI’s website is www.unifi.com . Our Annual Report on Form 10-K, Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, Current Reports on Form 8-K and all amendments to those reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended (the “Exchange Act”), as well as proxy statements and other information we file with, or furnish to, the SEC are available free of charge on our website. We make these documents available as soon as reasonably practicable after we electronically transmit them to the SEC. Except as otherwise stated in these documents, the information on our website or linked to or from our website is not a part of this report and is not incorporated by reference in this report or any of our other filings with the SEC. In addition, many of our corporate governance documents are available on our website, including our: Audit Committee Charter, Compensation Committee Charter, Corporate Governance and Nominating Committee Charter, Corporate Governance Guidelines, Code of Business Conduct and Ethics, Ethical Business Conduct Policy Statement, and Code of Ethics for Senior Financial and Executive Officers. Copies of such materials, as well as any of our SEC reports and all amendments thereto, may also be obtained without charge by writing to Unifi, Inc., 7201 West Friendly Avenue, Greensboro, North Carolina 27410, Attention: Corporate Secretary.
Text extracted from the filing as submitted to EDGAR. Formatting, tables and exhibits are simplified for reading; the original document is authoritative for anything you rely on.